Colwyn began by recounting his turning career saying how many things had changed from very limited equipment when he started He
explained his use of the skew including his double bevel grind (see photo below) developed from a german style.
His first piece was a lace bobbin in brown oak shaping then cutting the beads all with the skew with the finished piece shown right.
Table leg - in tulip wood. Again using one of his skews (left) with a planing action
followed by cutting beads & coves to create the leg.
Candlestick - above left shows the walnut base after shaping & cutting a centre recess. Then after loading the 'stem' piece shaping it with his skew . Picture right shows the finished piece.
Bowl in spalted beech- above shaping the foot then cutting the outside. After reversing the piece, then hollowing the inside and sanding .
After reversing he lined up the base centre to the tailstock and removed most of the foot and finished off with a sanding pad in the headstock. on the right the finished bowl inside & out.
Gary Rance Sat 9 June 2018
Gary gave us an entertaining day with demos of no less than 9 pieces! (not all shown) Also during his demo he gave many useful tips , including the importance of stance as well as the applicability, technique and method of use of certain tools, This included tools that he had specially adapted. Whilst he was demonstrating he quickly gained a rapport with members showing a great sense of humour!
His first demo was a special salt cellar shaped like a bell (as right) .
When filled with salt and shaken from side to side no salt will appear but if shaken up & down then it will. This involves a special inside funnel.
Shaping the 'inside' funnel now parted off Hollowing out the bell
Showing a handle with a marking turning the handle With the funnel inserted in the bell
board (template) here shaping the outside
To make this (shown right) Gary has a special circular 'jig' which is in two halves.This is shaped with an off-set centre. A piece of decorative wood is shaped to fit and then drilled as well as contoured (left).The piece is then reversed in the 'jig' so that it is finished on both sides. He finished it with sander/sealer and lacquer. He pointed out that there are different techniques for end grain and cross grain pieces to avoid 'tearing'. A useful piece for using up odd bits of 'good' wood.
Humming top This consists of two parts , - handle and cylinder
Shaping the rod piece of the cylinder After shaping the body and parting off a lid The lid placed back and pencil marked
now hollowing out
the finished cylinder shaping the handle the finished piece
Apple Initial shaping a finished laburnam piece with a twig for a stalk and a clove top
Frame using a spare 'middle'
Contouring the edge cutting the middle out Shaping the front on an expanding
the finished piece (below)
Tip over top - Initial shaping whilst
(right) cutting the inside
with left the finished top .
Gary emphasised that the base should not be pointed otherwise it will not 'tip over'. The decoration was made with felt tip pens. Happy to say that this one worked!
On the right a selection of Gary's work.
Mark Sanger - November 16 2017
Mark gave an entertaining and very informative demo whilst turning.
Unfortunately I was unable to be there all day so there are details of
only 2 pieces.He began by emphasising safety in turning. He always
wears a face mask.Then he stressed the importance of sharp tools.
Most interestingly he then explained his method of angles of tool
presentation to the work for various tools and their types of cut.
Starting on a dish Hollowing out . note position of hand and Marking with a special type of pyrography
and the rest machine with a loop shaped wire
the dish with the circle marked Now a line at the rim after a groove cut the finished piece with another formica
Mark uses a formica edge piece to make the colour marking. Bowl part has been spirit stained
A deep bowl in Holm (?) Oak starting to hollow Showing the hollowing action Long view
after reversing the piece, shaping the base the finished piece
May 6th - Les Thorne
Les gave a very interesting demo in a joivial manner with amusing quips as well as useful hints & tips along the way.
He demonstrated 3 pieces :- a carved and decorated box, an ash bowl decorated with torching and lime wax and a wet elm natural edge bowl..
He aslo gave a quick but useful guide on that bete noire of turners , the skew chisel, even showing that you could use a screwdriver in certain places when sharpened
With spigots at each end here Hollowing out the top test fitting the base to top Carving with a mini arbortech tool
shaping the piece
Now fully carved Airbrushing colour on removing a spigot the finished piece
Torched liming waxed bowl. Shaping the Texturing with abead-type tool Torching then brushing off excess bits
outside of the Ash bowl
Torching the rim Applying liming wax into the grooves The finished piece
Wet Elm natural edge bowl Shaping the outside After reversing piece removing the inside going deeper
Checking thickness with a light inside the finished piece from the top and the side
Stuart Mortimer - February 27 2016
Stuart, the legendary turner of spiral work , gave an amazing demo of his techniques. He produced no less than 6 pieces (5 shown here), giving one a good grasp of this form of turning. At the same time interspersing hints and tips along the way with a good few for beginners in a gentle and amusing manner.
He explained about the different twists and added that while it was possible to do these with hand tools, he now preferred using various power tools.
As with many experts, Stuart made the cutting look easy but great care must be taken particularly when the large arbortech disk is fitted to an angle grinder as it is quite easy for it to 'run away' . (my own experience - rs)
His first piece (shown below) in russian pine was an open double twist.
Having marked out the Having drawn the cut control lines 'drilling' the centre out from deepening the cuts with
horizontal start lines starting the cut the end an arbortech disc whilst
now marking the pitch lines rotating the piece by hand
Deepening the cuts to Sanding the profile with a Sanding the 'inside' faces with the 'finished' piece sufficient to the
break through to the home-made sanding stick a sanding strip threaded through to show the techniques
centre with a powered
Second piece was a twisted hollow form in Beech
Truing up the blank after shaping he marked up marking the cut lines Hollowing out
the pitch lines
Using a light to check for Cutting through with a Proxxon the end product finished just enough to show the
even thickness power tool technique invovled
Initial shaping then after marking out here cutting with the small smooting the cut with a burr power finished to show the effect
arbortech tool tool
After initial shaping here starting more hollowing out with the tailstock now supporting the cup here
to cut the goblet cup of the cup shaping the stem
Cutting the spirals with a burr tool smooting with strips of sanding the finished goblet
Marking out a complicated set Cuting with hte big arbortech situation prior to clean up the finished article
May 21 Chris Pouncy
Chris from Robert Sorby Tools demonstrated 3 of his company's specialist tools.
He started by emphasising the importance of sharpening your tools although he did not show the company's latest sharpening jig/tool.
First up were the texturing and spiraling tools
With a prepared piece Chris uses here with the tool vertically applied after colouring , the finished piece
the tool horizontally across the piece
Here making a spiralling effect the finished piece
Using the eccentric chuck fitment where the
centre can be offset in any direction the finished example
Mark Hancock - April 4
After roughing down here shaping a spigot After reversing the piece , more shaping then starting to holllow out the inside
Refining the top inside with a special tool another reverse to shape and then remove the base spigot using a profiile gauge to check the curve
with the aim to make it continuous flow
from outside to inside the 'legs'.
Mark gave an entertaining but also very instructive and enjoyable demo with many tips relating to many aspects of turning.
Apologies for the background to many of the photos. the demo is held in a childrens 'kindergarten room'.
Mark used spalted sycamore for his first piece.
Cutting the legs and smooting the curve the legs now completed ebonising the wood power brushing off any
.cutting an assymetrical groove Applying goold leaf to the inside the finished piece
then painting it
For his second piece, Mark made a 'rocking vessel'. This is a piece which is not meant to stand but lay on its side and rock
Explaining the shape After roughing down here shaping then after reversing , making the then the vertical grooves
the piece ring grooves with an also with the arbortech tool
Refining the grooves Air brushing colour onto the piece one he'd made earlier having had
a similar 'ebonising'
Mark Baker - November 15th
Mark , who is Editor of Woodturning magazine, gave a very
enlighting demo packed with useful tips and produced
no less than 5 pieces of work all of which were interesting
He remarked that it was always very useful to study
shapes of artefacts of ancient civilisations as well as ceramics to obtain a different slant for turning work.
His first piece was a lidded bowl in Sycamore.
After roughing down and creating a spigot for later, Mark is here shaping the outside. Note the OG shape just below the rim.
Making beads All beads now created After reversing the piece & making a spigot
here cutting the lid from the base
Shaping the inside of the bowl . The lid back on being shaped the finished lid on the base
note the shaping by the rim to
take the lid.
The outside of the bowl and the inside
A Tea Light holder in ply.
Having roughed out the block to a
cylinder and cutting spigots both Having hollowed out the light recess and after reversing the
ends, starting to shape the body here shaping the neck piece onto a wood jam chuck now
removing the spigot
The finished piece Next a dish/lid - here refining the shape then cutting beads & spaces as decoration
the finished piece Here fitting a tea light holder he'd made earlier
Next a Ginger Jar (Asian style) in ripple sycamore
Shaping the outside then after reversing the piece, hollowing out the inside a final refining of the outside
Making the lid the finished piece
A piece in walnut
After roughing out & making spigots/feet then reversing and hollowing out
here shaping the base
Final hollowing with a scraper to obtain the finished piece
A negative rake scraper used by Mark A bristle brush used for 'cleaning abd finishing between beads
Mark Sanger - Apriil 19th
Mark gave an excellent demo providing many tips and pointers
along the way, including safety aspects and his ideas on
proportion. As shown below,he had ingenious methods of
sanding inside a hollow form.
His first piece was a coloured bowl.
After roughing down, shaping the outside Drilling a centre hole Hollowing out with a led light Reverse chucking with a
attached to the rest neoprene pad faceplate
Sanding off the rest of the Applying pickling vinegar
foot with a pad on a drill which has had wire wool The base showing the
Removing the foot extension in it The finished piece foot treatment
Next - a hollow form, after After drilling a centre hole After hollowing out using a sanding pad on the Mark's special inside sander made from
roughing down here shaping hollowing out end of a drill piece a coat hanger
Buffing the piece after applying
Removing the foot polishing compound to a wheel The finished piece