Hints & Tips
JB produced a few of the things he had made to aid the turning process. 1st was this stand with slits to hold different
grades of 'sandpaper'. 2nd was a tip for drilling a centre hole by hand which was to hold the drill handle with a 'mole' wrench to give greater steadiness. Next after a nasty experience sanding inside a hollowform, he showed an L shaped 'sander' made from a coat hanger with sandpaper attached .
Next a similar tool for sanding bowl bottoms (seen here with GT loooking on) used in a drill chuck. chuck. Tongs were also useful to have handy for holding sandpaper in certain cases.
Then an ingenious tool for hollow forms a piece of metal which held the tool at the top with the
bottom part the same diameter as the tool rest .
Finally Paul mentioned the plastic circle aid , a piece of transparent plastic with circle lines of
different radii each with a 'drawing' hole as well as a centre point hole. A great aid for setting out.
Club Evening - General
Usually there are two kinds of evenings
1 - Introduction to a Turning project , with a demonstration.
2 - The following month is a competition evening when members bring their project work. All members then vote
on the pieces and points are totalled up for trophies at the AGM in March. Photos of the competition are shown
on the Competition Gallery page.
Each month though , members can bring any turning they have done for constructive criticism . Photos of these
are on the Members' work page.
After reversing the bowl , now hollowing out the inside Making the final cuts inside
After patiently fitting the top to the hollowed The finished piece together......... and the separate pieces
stalk, here further refinement of the stalk shape
2 Waterproofing a goblet.
Geoff Knott had used Rustins plastic coating for this with 6 coats on the cup part and 4 on the stem. You can read/download Geoff's excellent document on how he makes goblets by going to our 'documents' page.
In reply to a question on recommendation on types of sander/sealers, Paul said that he used Chestnut's cellulose product as he understood that most of the 'nasty' things had been removed. He mixed this with thinners so that it soaked in better. Clive had used an Acrylic version but it was very slow to dry so not ideal.
4 Food Safe finishes.
According to paul, Chestnut's food safe oil is an expensive version of liquid paraffin. Rick P added that the latter could be bought through him but this did not have any driers. Most oils such as sunflower will suffice provided that they are left to soak in. (note that raw linseed oil does NOT dry
but the boiled version does). Geoff Knott added that in his experience the only 2 oils not to go rancid were Tung Oil (by Liberon) and Rustin's Danish oil (which is Tung based). Paul closed this topic by emphasising that any oil needs to be dry to be safe.
The AGM followed its usual pattern fronted by Moira, JB and Clive (here presenting the annual accounts which are in a healthy state).
JB outlined the successful shows the club had participated in, particularly the New Forest Show. We had two Professional demos as well as a demo by 2 pyrographers. Generally the club is thriving..
Having previously prepared this piece of After reversing onto cole jaws here triming up With a hole saw making a random pattern of
Alder making a first hollow but leaving plenty the outside holes but avoiding drilling right through
Reversed back now carefully skimming the so that the holes appear. here checking the
inside hole edges. the finished piece
Having roughed down the second Here using a box cutter to remove the pimple then replacing the base with the lid, preparing
box and cut & removed a lid here left by the forstner bit. then he checked the fit to shape the lid .
prepariing to drill out the inside. the fit of the smaller box .
Here removing the inside to accommodate shaping the edge of the lid test fitting an example of a trio of nested boxes
the smaller box all the while - patience needed!
Paul started by suggesting various suitable shapes drawing on a whiteboard, emphasising the importance of the grain direction for each. He also explained that the shade could be decorated by for example piercing the wood giving a lattice work effect (see Jakki's work below)
A Lattice Bowl by John Wyatt from the Forest of Bere Club
Here shaping the inside form the spigot This is the jig John has made to hold his and the table that the jig sits on which in
Dremel which has a router type cutter fitted turn has a rod amongst other things to sit
on the lathe bed.
With the headstock on an index fitting the finished routing Having reversed the piece now starting to shape
showing the routing process shape the underside
Making concentric grooves with the light the finished top (apart from the spigot) the finished underside
showing to help with depth cutting
3 pieces John has made showing the lattice effect
Feb 18 2016 - Workshop night
Graham demonstrated how to successfully turn tall and thin objects .
Note the use of the free hand in shaping the piece A shape nearing completion examples of his work
Best Beginner David Game Most Improved turner Joe McGuire Innovation & Creativity Presidents Cup for Design
Andy Browne who also was Ed Walker who also was
runner-up for Table A winner for Table A
Table B winner Nick Jazwinski Table B runner-up Adrian Hart Services to the club Geoff Knott The wood sale enjoyed by all
The finished base (seat) cutting the back to make 2 semi-circular Having cut through here removing the
pieces from one piece outer circle which will be cut in half
Her showing how to get the correct angle for The finished chair.
drilling holes for the legs
Hollowing and hollowing tools - Nov 16 - Paul
Paul went through the history of hollowing tools which started with Stephen Cooper's 'pick' type
then the swan neck type which gave greater ability but was limited by a short shaft. (see right)
Then came Phil Irons 'woodcut' model followed by a hook type with an adjustable cover to
control the amount of cut (see left) .
The 'head' was then made with an adjustable crank to give yet more
versatility (see below left) There are other models (eg Roly Munro, Simon
Hope) . there is a final 'advance with an 'outrigger' attached which helps to
stop any twisting. (see below right)
Paul making a start to hollowing (1) then gradually widening the hollow (2) Attilio having a go (3)
October 19 - Geoff Knott - Ray Jones style chair
Ray Jones is well known for his miniature style chairs and Geoff gave an admirable demo of how the individual pieces are made that go to make up this chair.
Bead cutting a leg strecher Preparing a leg The two finished pieces (leg on left)
with a spanner as a guide.
August 17 - 'In the style of'
Paul explained that the title 'in the style of famous woodturners (eg Stuart
Mortimer & Spiral turning) is the idea for the next competition to turn a piece in the style of a pro they like ,preferably backed up by a picture of the pro's work
Shaping the dish to 2mm thin Fine shaping Note use of left hand showing the pyrography marks
enough for cutting to steady the rim made for decoration.
Showing shaping cuts made with This is Paul's oriiginal which was the inspiration
a Dremel tool
June 16 - Ukibori demonstration by Graham
The technique goes like this - : using a hard punch with a very smooth rounded end, the wood is depressed a small amount beneath the surface. The surface is then turned down level with the bottom of the depression formed by the punched area . Then the depressions are wetted with boiling water or steamed. Since the wood in the depression was compressed,the crushed wood fibres will swell up when wet, creating a bump above the surrounding surface.
Top right an example of depressions made.
Left - Graham turning down the piece to the level of the base of depressions
Right - The piece with slightly raised 'pimples'. This was not very successful due to the llimitations of steaming at the club.but it shows the idea.
April 22nd - Twin-walled Bowl - Paul
March 16 AGM
Left - Paul's magnificent array of wood blanks for sale
Right - the 9 trophies
Best Beginner - Nick Gosden Most Improved - Nick Jazwinski Most Creative - Bob Randall Service to club - Ann Davison
Bob also won the table B
Table B joint runners-up Joe McGuire & Table A runner-up David Game Table A winner Ed Walker . Ed was
Nick Jazwinski .Joe was also winner of away on the night so this is him
the president's cup for design winning it last year
Feb 16 - Woodcarving
There were pieces from 3 woodcarving clubs on display :-
the Dorset Stickmakers, Mudeford Carvers and Lymington.
Mike Tuck (left) gave an introduction as well as his usual plug for the 'Dorset Do' An annual event with hobbies & crafts in action on 23 Sept.
( see dorset-do.co.uk)
Alan Leagas (right) runs the Lymington club and explained their meeting details. He also emphasised the differences with turning as carving was a much longer process .Below are just some of the amazing items on display
19 Jan 2017
Something for the Kitchen - Paul
Paul began by suggesting many possibilities for this project such as a kitchen towel holder and a storage jar (see examples right). Also a pessel & mortar, a scoop, a ladle which can be in various sizes. The example he chose to demonstrate is a rolling pin.
He also suggested the the following woods as being suitable :- sycamore, beech, cherry and any fruit woods.
Having rough turned the main body he then drilled a centre hole half way,photo (btm left). After reversing the piece he repeated the drilling to complete the hole.
Next he used a parting tool to make marker diameters at each end at some points along the body . Then he turned down it down to the correct diameter using the markers.
Middle photo shows him trimmimg one end with a skew
After sanding down he removed the piece .
Photo right shows him shaping the central spindle piece
Photo below left shows the thread Below centre starting the hole for Testing the spindle for screw compatibility with the
chasing on the spindle the other handle (later enlarged other handle.
and thread chased
Showing the three individual parts with the thread The finished piece
chasing visible on the end of the spindle piece
Workshop evening - Nov 17
Joe McGuire - wood piercing
Joe demonstrated various tools that he used including a Dremmel and a Proxxon mini jigsaw. He stressed the importance of holding
the piece firmly whilst piercing. He prefers using Laurel wood. Below a finished piece
Ed Walker -
Left - Ed buffing up a shine with Carnuba wax applied to the buffing mop.
Applying a finish to a dish using danish oil on the mop.
Ed stressed that you should not put too much wax/oil on the mop and when you use Danish Oil do not precede it with sander/sealer.
Paul Reeves - Metal leaf decoration
Paul explained there were different types of foil generally available from art shops. (also available via Amazon ed.) The best use is in small pieces to highlight areas of the turning. it's best to use the special adhesive but only apply it where the 'leaf' is to go and also use sander sealer first if the wood is 'raw'.
Photos above (centre) show a sheet as purchased whilst on the right foil has been applied on concave cuts round the edge of a piece .
Cutting an outline after glue applying the foil and round the edge of a bowl in various stages of application
with a carver with a soft brush
October 20 - Workshop night - Christmas Decorations
1 JB - Christmas Trees. John started by suggesting that medium density wood was most suitable for creating the 'leaf' effect and advising that you practise the technique of the leaf effect before you shape the tree.To make this you dig thelong point of a skew straight in to the ppiece to a depth of 1.5 mm approx. then after moving the tool slightly parallell to the piece you 'turn' the leaf (see below)
Dipping the leaves on with green paint sprinkling glitter on the finished pieces
2 Bob Williams - Angels
Setting up the piece Shaping the base, body and the head 2 views of a finished piece, the halo cut from plastic
3 Pyrography - Graham here explaining Moira showing her skill
the technique to Wendy
4 Rotating Wind piece - Adrian Hart. Having lathe incompatibility problems Adrian could only show how he had made the model
THe piece should have candles suitably positioned round the base with the blades overlapping to catch the rising heat.
A circular ring A Christmas tree A central hub the assembled piece
August 18 - Toy for a child under 5 - Paul
Paul began by emphasising that the criteria for this project was vastly different from the usual in that the main purpose is that the toy is functional and safe to use. He mentioned that it would be beneficial to check with any health & safety websites
(eg rospa.com/home-safety/advice/product/toy-safety ). Suitable woods are Sycamore, Beech, Ash, Oak and Fruit trees to name but a few.
Paul's choice as a demo is a rolling rattle toy
Roughing down one of the dongers The finished piece (hole drilled beforehand) Turning one of the wheels
The finished wheel (tread included) Holes made on the inside for cross pieces Assembling The finished Toy
July 21 Air Brush Painting
SKIN as he prefers to be known, started by explaining that there were different types of airbrush . the one he uses (see far right) is a double action brush (cost £150 but which gives much greater precision. He showed the use of stencils to give shapes but aso did freehand work ( see skull far right) . Control is a matter of practice. JB, Ed W and Graham all had a go using JB's Lidl compressor which although had limitations, nevertheless produced reasonable results
Examples of Skin's work are shown below . On the left is a customised motor cycle mudguard. Central is a general 'picture' and on the right is a a motor cycle headguard in Michael Schumacker's livery.
June 16 Wood turned Art - Graham Turner
Graham started by saying that for this project tthere were 2 'rules' :-
1 The project should show Imagination
2 The project should demonstrate technical Skill.
Graham first made an example where the wood itself , cankered ash, presented artisitic possibilities but also required a lot of skill.
First shaping the piece After drillling a hole with a forstner drilll bit, here using 'woodcut' the finished piece
hollow form tool with a special tool rest jig for extra steadiness
two other similar pieces
Applying dye colour to a dish Sanding down buffing up with carnuba wax the finished piece
May 19 - Turning Wet Wood - Paul
Paul started by stressing the importance of being very selective with wet wood , particularly branch wood which has different characteristics to trunk wood.
He went on to explain wood shrinkage :- longtitudinally is as little as 0.1% whilst circumferentially it can be up to 8 %
Much more info on this in Michael O'Donnell's excellent book 'Turning Green wood' (published by GMC).
He also suggested the technique of 'rough turning' which involves turning the wet wood to a 'rough' shape of its intended finish This removes most of the wood that will be removed eventually anyway .
Shown right are some examples of shrinkage
Paul here is demonstrating an end-over-end turning of 'wet' sycamore.
Left shaping the foot and the outside
Right - the outside and foot completed
now peparing to reverse the piece
Having reversed the piece, now shaping the inside
The finished piece
Paper Joints and two-handled bowl - Paul
Left - A general view of our hall showing our new super big screen giving a much improved view for everybody
Paul explained the history of the Scottish Quaich and the significance of the two handles.
Right - an example of a two-handled bowl but the idea is to make two at a time using a paper joint i.e. the wood glued with a piece of paper in between to ease separation after turning.
A split cylinder of wood with a piece turning down one handle shape refining handle shape Checking the sphere shape
of ply at each end to strengthen the with a ply former
the pair of bowls still glued After separating the two pieces After reversing onto the foot Carefully finishing the top of
one half held in two jaws to now hollowing out the bowl the handle
cut a small foot on the base
Here's one I made earlier
March 17 2016 - AGM
The AGM followed its traditional pattern. After apologies, the minutes of last year's meeting were approved. THen John Bolt (shown left) ) gave his report as chairman stating that the club was thriving with over 80 members.
He was followed by Clive Potter with his report on the statement of accounts as Treasurer. Briefly we are in good shape with a current surplus of over £350 for last year.
Apart from Moira Powell who is stepping down as secretary, all the present committee were re-elected. After the presentation of trophies (see below) members were able to buy wood at bargain prices thanks to Paul & Greta Reeves & Geoff Knott.
We had 4 demos on the night with new Table A winner Ed Walker , previous winner Graham Turner, Stalwart and ex-professional Geoff Knott and Pen specialist Clive Potter. What with photograping the competition and members work,
it was not possible for me to cover all 4 demos in detail so i concentrated on Clive as pen making is an unusual technique.
Below left shows Ed at the lathe and the corkscrew handle Geoff demonstrated`how to undercut with special
he made. He told me that he'd had to make over 40 corkscrews reference to a deep requirement for a piece. Note
or bottle stoppers for a wedding! Kits for these are available his stance, his grip and positioning of the tool Axminster
Clive - Pen Making
Blanks with bushes ready The Mandrel Pieces mounted on the Shaping Sanding to a very fine
to put on the mandrel mandrel on the lathe finish
Inserting the pen body using a vice the half-finished pen adding the top A selection of pens
January 21 2016
Coloured & Textured Platter - Paul
As the next project competition is platters, Paul felt it important to 'spell out' a definition/rules to be
It should stay level when used. For diameters up to 13" the foot should be no deeper than 1/2".
For diameters 12-15" diameter the foot should not be deeper than 3/4".
A platter does not necessarily have to have a foot but if it does, it should be greater than 50 % in
diameter of the overall width.
Having Glued the blank to an MDF back first cuts the foot Close up of the home-made cutter which is inserted in the headstock
then after eversing the piece marks out the boundary line for and the piece offered up to make radial cuts and then some angled
the cuts (see below left)
Having sprayed the piece in black then coloured the cut-back Finally removing the centre
Paul has 'skimmed' off the surface perimeter
edge to reveal the black cuts
Paul also showed how to get a herringbone effect using a spiral cutter (shown left)
with the finished effect shown right
Mixed Materials - Graham Turner Nov 19th
Graham explained that the materials in question were
Pewter, Acrylics and Resin Impregnated material.
He explained that he bought pellets of tin & antimony based pewter and after making a mould he melted the pellets into the mould. photo shows a prepared job .
He showed a pen piece using a pen mandril
Similar to a pen, Graham showed the effect one could get
Removing the wood Truing up the pewter the pewter cleaned up then after removing remaining wood buffing pewter
A finished piece roughing down an acrylic piece Micromeshing the piece an example of a finished pen
A piece of resin impregnated with Polishing with super glue the finshed piece
laminated & coloured hard wood
John explained that for this project it would be best to use close-grained woods and then explained that the process was unusual in that you turned the inside or top first but still making a spigot .
Sept 17 Workshop Night
Geoff demonstrating tool sharpening Paul with general turning hints Graham on spiral techniques
Adrian demonstrating his clever method of making a spotted toadstool from a bunch of one he made earlier
Aug 20 - Lampshades - Paul
With a piece of Sycamore, Paul mounting After cutting a foot, now shaping the Having reversed the piece Reversed again onto Cole
a pre-roughed down bowl type shape. the foot now 'thinning' - reducing the Jaws ready for refining
thickness but replicating the the outside shape but
the outside shape checking the thickness
Drilling the light fitting hole the finished piece with a light to show the full effect Jakki's
June 18 - Nested Boxes - Paul
Paul explained the idea for this was based on the russian doll toy (see left) where there are a number of dolls each one smaller inside.
The project here is for boxes with suitable woods suggested as follows :- sycamore, box, dry holly, apple and other fruit woods.
The technique is to start with the smallest box first. For the sake of time , paul had previously made a small box, since the important part of this project was the precision needed to fit them accurately .
April 16 - Holey Bowl by Paul
The model on which the demo was based. An
award winning piece by Paul with coloured edges
March 19 AGM
Paul & Greta's wood sale proved as popular as ever with very brisk sales. Pictures (right) show Greta serving while Paul is in discussion with Mike Tuck.
Annual Trophy Presentation
Jean Zani with flowers Rachel Watling- best beginner Charlie Walker - most improved Jakki - for innovation & creativity
for the essential tea service
Graham Turner - design award Table B - runner up - Rachel Table A - runner up - Andy Browne Table A - winner - Graham
The following 'winners' were not at the meeting :- Table B - winner - John Dodworth. Service to the Club - Bob Williams
Feb 19 Question & Answer Session
The session was chaired by JB with Paul as our resident 'expert' . For questions, there were 4 main topics discussed as follows:-
1. Microwaving turnings to speed up drying.
. Ed Walker showed a piece of silver birch which he had 'wetted' to shape by soaking overnight then microwaving on a low
setting for 1 minute after which it was weighed. He repeated the process a number of times, weighing after each
'burst'. In Ed's case because he wanted to specifically shape the piece, he used rubber bands for this. these apparently
were not affected by the microwaving.
Geoff Knott had used a microwave on some green sycamore after rough turning it. His method was a 1.5 - 3 mins burst on
a defrost setting with the additional step of leaving the piece in the microwave for 1 hour after. Then repeating the process 12
It was stressed that it's important to use a separate microwave (as opposed to the 'kitchen' one) as some woods could 'taint' any subsequent food cooking.
Jan 15 2015
Mushroom by Paul
Paul demonstrated 2 methods of turning mushrooms as shown on the right .Rightmost is a solid one all in one piece which he made first. On the left Paul is holding his hollowed out version with a separate top (not shown)
Turning between centres, Paul first shaped the mushroom top
and here started shaping the stalk.
After shaping the stalk, the piece has been reversed and here Paul has started on the underside of the top
Checking the thickness of the top
the finished piece
Mushroom no 2 with a hollowed out stalk
A piece of Yew - first shaping Cutting the stalk Having parted off the top, here hollowing
the top. out the stalk.
Paul here showing one 'he'd made earlier', explained that this piece could be done in two parts but was making a one-piece turning now.
He had chosen a 'dome shaped' burr oak piece and started by gluing where the bark joined the main wood to secure the bark.
Dec 17 - Paul - Candle Bowl
Having cut a 'ring' for the bowl and a recess for the Here, refining rim thickness. Note position Here showing a special hollowing tool
sconce. He then increased hollowing the bowl. of tool rest. 'a ronny monroe'
Thinning the centre with a left-handed action Cleaning up the base having reversed the piece The finished article
then further gluing to protect the bark. using a 'jam' chuck.
Nov 19 Paul - Skittles
Oct 16 - Pyrography - Paul Mehrer with Sylvia & Tony
Paul together with his assistants, Sylvia & Tony, provided a very interesting evening. After an intro by Paul, members
were invited to try their hand at the technique. This proved to be very popular. see photos below.
After roughing out, shaping a cheese with a spigot Decorating the cheese top with rings Setting out markings for the skittle with a copy
mechanism behind the piece
Shaping the skittle top Finishing the skittle base The finished skittle and cheeses
Paul explaining a point Tony demonstrating a method Sylvia explaining the carbon paper copying method
Jakki decorating her 'off centre' dish Ric & Attilio trying their hands
Setting up for sharpening (note glove) Checking a gauge ? sharpening the chain teeth
Sept 18 - Paul - Chain Saws
Paul gave an interesting talk and demo on off-centre turning. He first of all pointed out that while there were clever techniques one could use, it was important in his view to bear in mind what the overall shape and proportions would be.
He showed two examples:- 1 for spindle turning 2 for faceplate.
August 21 - Off-centre turning - Paul Reeves
On the left , 4 points are shown for using with headstock drive with identical points marked for the tailstock end.
This gives a number of possible variations , e.g. head stock on point 1 & tailsrock on point 3.
On the right , the piece is set up .
Hollowing almost complete The finished article - the top and the base (with foot removed)
The result of such permutations can just about be seen on the right, which makes for a more interesting leg shape for example
Faceplate example with 2 scew chuck holes made - one in the centre and one app one inch off centre (not shown) .
Having turned the rim on the centre hole now (left) rechucked to the offset to shape the bowl base and the foot.
Right - with the bowl now reversed onto the foot,
starting to hollow out the inside.
Fret Saw work - Ian McClure with Attilio - July 17
Ian gave an entertaining and enlightening demo. First, outlining the basics of the machine and then describing the different methods of cutting.
He emphasised the importance of using the right blade for the cutting method with only 2-4 teeth in the wood at any one time.
He obtained his patterns/templates from Hobbies type magazines or hobbycraft supplies . He was ably assisted by Attilio on another machine. He showed the versatility of the machine by bringing many examples of work he's produced. (see photos below)
Here cutting from a template pasted onto The resulting fish cut out Further cuts to make an interesting
the wood. piece.
Here making internal cuts Attilio finishing off round the outside
Geoff, a retired professional turner, gave an excellent talk and
demo on goblet making. He first told us the various woods he has
used (eg beech, oak, sycamore as well as fruit woods). He
generally makes 3 different styles which he calls 'egg', 'thistle ' and
funnel which is the shape he made this evening.
Note that Geoff has produced an excellent 8 page guide which
covers the subject in much more detail and is an ideal guide
particularly any first timer for this type of project.
Members can contact me (richard) for copies.
The finished Butterfly Examples of Ian's work
A pair of Goblets - Geoff Knott June 19
After roughing down and shaping the body With the Tailstock removed here hollowing out
measuring the base diameter.
Here shaping the base The finished article
Having drilled a hole in a Here putting a thread on a rod Home-made Cole jaws Home-made sharpening jig
piece of ali, tapping a
a final cut
Paul explained that there were many different types of skittles due to regional variations.
Woods such as Poplar and Lignum Vitae were often used with 9 being the most common number for a set.
The balls aren't always spherical and he demo'd what they call 'cheeses' ,a disc shape which he first turned.